Total Weight:
28.8 lbs (13.06 kg)
Battery Weight:
3.96 lbs (1.79 kg)
Motor Weight:
4.29 lbs (1.94 kg)
Frame Material:
Specialized FACT 11r Carbon Fiber
Frame Sizes:
16.33 in (41.47 cm)17.61 in (44.72 cm)18.79 in (47.72 cm)19.78 in (50.24 cm)20.76 in (52.73 cm)21.94 in (55.72 cm)Geometry Measurements:
Medium 477.5mm Measurements: 18.75" Seat Tube Length, 21" Reach, 28.5" Stand Over, 32" Minimum Saddle Height, 18" Width, 67" Length
Frame Types:
High-Step
Frame Colors:
Cast Battleship Blue with Black and Raw Carbon Accents
Frame Fork Details:
Rigid Carbon Fiber, Boost 110mm Hub Spacing, 12mm Thru-Axle with Quick Release
Frame Rear Details:
Boost 148mm Hub Spacing, 12mm Thru-Axle with Quick Release
Attachment Points:
Two Bottle Cage Mounts, Rear Rack Mounts, Fender Mounts
Gearing Details:
11
Speed 1x11 Shimano Deore XT Di2 Shadow Plus Derailleur with One-Way Clutch, Shimano XT 11-42 Tooth CassetteShifter Details:
Shimano Ultegra Di2 Paddle Shifters on Right (Single Click High and Low)
Cranks:
Praxis, Forged Aluminum Alloy M30, Custom Offset, 165mm to 175mm Length, Aluminum Alloy 46 Tooth Narrow-Wide Chainring, 110 BCD Spider, 181mm Q-Factor
Pedals:
Specialized Dirt
Headset:
Threadless, Cartridge Bearings, Tapered 1-1/ 8" to 1-1/ 2"
Stem:
Specialized Future Shock 2.0 with Smooth Boot Hydraulic Damping (Compression Rebound Dial), 6° Rise, 70mm to 100mm Length, 31.8mm Clamp Diameter
Handlebar:
Specialized Expert Hover Drop Bars, 125mm Drop, 380mm to 440mm Length
Brake Details:
Shimano Ultegra R8070 Hydraulic Disc with 160mm Dual-Layer ICE-Tech Rotors, Shimano Ultegra Dual-Piston Calipers, Shimano Ultegra Four-Finger Hooded Levers with Adjustable Reach
Grips:
Specialized Roubaix S-Wrap (Suede Finish Paired with EVA Vibration Damping Foam), Shimano Rubber Hoods
Saddle:
Body Geometry Power Expert, Hollow Titanium Rails
Seat Post:
S-Works FACT Carbon, 20mm Offset
Seat Post Length:
350 mm
Seat Post Diameter:
27.2 mm
Rims:
ROVAL C38, Carbon Fiber, 622x21c, 24 Hole, Deep Dish, Tubeless Ready
Spokes:
Stainless Steel, 15 Gauge, Black with Nipples
Tire Brand:
Specialized Turbo Pro, 700x28c (28x622)
Wheel Sizes:
29 in (73.66cm)Tire Details:
85 to 95 PSI, 6.0 to 6.5 BAR, GRIPTON Compound, Blackbelt Puncture Protection
Tube Details:
Presta Valve (48mm)
Accessories:
Long Rubberized Chain Stay Slap Guard, Optional Range Extender Battery Pack ($450, 46.8 Volts, 3.35 Amp Hours, 160 Watt Hours, 2.3lbs 1.04kg) Range Extender Cable ($45) SLY Charging Split Cable ($65), Replacement Charger ($200), Optional Replacement Battery ($700), Optional TCD LCD Display ($90, Battery Percentage, Pedal Cadence, Speed, Distance, Trip Time, Odometer, Calories, Pedal Watts, Time)
Other:
Downtube-Integrated Battery Pack (Removable with Tools, 3.96lb), 1.9lb 54.6 Volt 3.0 Amp Charger, 181mm Q-Factor, Shimano Ultegra Chain with Missing Link, Maximum Motor RPM Support 120, IP67 Rated Against Water and Dust (Main Battery, Range Extender Battery, SL 1.1 Motor, TCU Display)
Harvey Miller
5 years agoI am very curious about the comment that the Shimano GRX brake levers can be fitted on the Creo with the extensions so that the user can apply the brakes from the top of the handlebar. My wife has order the Crea and was told that this adaptation can not be done “due to the hydraulic brakes”. I suspected that the LBS was incorrect but, in searching for the GRX levers I didn’t see any (so far) with those extended levers. Can anyone furnish a link while being absolutely sure that it would be able to be mounted on the Creo?
ReplyCharlie at ElectriCityBikes
5 years agoWe have fit the GRX sub brake lever on a Creo handlebar already. Note that these are REALLY grabby and there is no modulator to dial that back. If you are local to us in Washington DC we can do this for you, otherwise you can ask your local dealer to order and install. It will require splicing the brake hose and bleeding the system. Let me know if that works!
ReplyCourt
5 years agoAwesome, thanks for the feedback on this Charlie!
ReplyByron Mucke
5 years agoThanks so much for the review of both Creo models Court. Though expensive, it shows how thorough Specialized is in making sure they are creating a fully integrated bike riding experience. For long commuters (20+ miles one way) this is a dream bike. I did not realize that the Creo went to 28 as opposed to the traditional 20. As a traditional road cyclist, I often exceed the 20 mph limit, but to be able to maintain a steady 25 would make my commute more enjoyable. Hopefully we will get a chance to hear your impressions of how this system compares to the eBikemotion system bikes like the Orbea Gain or Fazua bikes.
ReplyCourt
5 years agoHi Byron! I much prefer it to the Fazua motor. Just got to cover that system on some BULLS models earlier in the year, including the Alpine Hawk EVO here. The SL motor feels more natural, provides more power, goes faster (in this configuration), and produced similar if not less noise. Hope this helps! I’ll keep an eye out for the Orbea Gain ;)
ReplyByron Mucke
5 years agoHi Court. I have read that the Q factor on the Creo is wider than other e-road bikes. Did you feel this was the case when you were riding?
ReplyCourt
5 years agoGreat question, Byron! This is one of the only questions I did not get feedback on when reviewing the bike. I’ll reach out to them and ask about Q-Factor… My ride experience overall was great, and I did not feel that it was noticeably wider than other products… but I wasn’t going back to back and was coming off of eMTB models before this demo event, so it’s hard for me to say.
ReplyCourt
5 years agoHi Bryon, I reached out to Specialized and was told that the Q-Factor for their SL 1.1 motor ebikes is 181mm. I hope this helps! I believe that a standard bicycle Q-Factor is 175mm, so it would appear that this is indeed slightly wider. My own experience with the bike was that it felt pretty comfortable and normal, but I wasn’t using clip-in style shoes and wasn’t riding super far or hard. I hope this helps!
ReplyByron Mucke
5 years agoThank you for the research Court. I saw in a Peloton Facebook post that Trek has the Domane+ HP line using the Bosch motor to reach the 28 mph limit. This is now in addition to their Domane+ LT that uses the Fazua system. The HP line is coming in around 36+ lbs.
Kenneth Maruska
5 years agoThere are impressive ebikes but I not sure if they are game changers for getting more new riders on ebikes – they are clearly designed by cyclists for cyclists. I think when riding an ebike it’s better for most riders to be more upright for visibility and comfort, have wider tires for improved comfort and handling, and higher power for making it easier to maintain higher average speeds. I understand the desire for concealing that it’s an ebike when targeting traditional cyclists but I think long term that the best commuting ebikes will go the way of motorcycles and just make the drive systems a design element of the bike (motor and batteries can be an interesting design element of the bike). As examples I like to refer to models from Klever and Vintage.
ReplyCourt
5 years agoYeah, I’m with you on these views Kenneth… and I think that Riese & Müller is a great example of motorcycle-esque electric bicycles. When you look at the overbuilt sturdy frames, designed with comfort and utility in mind, and how the motor and battery elements are a part of the bike vs. being concealed. As a somewhat sporty rider myself, and a lightweight rider as well, the Specialized Turbo Creo is a real treat… it’s so light and fast and integrated. The ride experience is an athletic sporty one that for me, is an improvement over a non electric road bike simply because it allows me to go further and ascend hills without exhaustion if desired. I think these are two different categories of cycling, even in the analog space… so they do translate into the electric space and still serve each audience well. I’ll keep an eye out for Klever and Vintage so we can post some more reviews later this year :)
ReplyRick
5 years agoSo how does one get expert Advise from a guy like Charlie, when you live in another state: The Specialized dealer in my area didn’t even know the Como They had on the floor was Class 3. I can drive there and buy a Bike From Charlie, Correct? I just can’t order Online? At least a Specialized I can’t. Is that Correct? Thanks
ReplyCourt
5 years agoGood question, Rick! Charlie is definitely a leader in this industry, and I suppose you could just call him? Check out the ElectriCity Ebikes website and reach out. I bet he’d spend some time answering questions, even if you did end up buying locally. I can’t speak for these guys, but most folks that I meet in the industry are friendly and just want to see people enjoy cycling and find a good product fit ;)
ReplyDavid
5 years agoThanks for reviewing the Expert and the Comp! I just devoured the written and filmed reviews and wanted to ask about your thoughts on choosing one over the other– I saw in the Expert video that Charlie mentioned (towards the end) that he preferred the Expert non-Evo over the Comp Evo. I’m debating between the two Comp flavors right now, having ridden the Comp Evo (what a bike!), as well as debating waiting a bit longer to figure out how to make an Expert happen. Could you speak to the differences between? Other than DI2 and tire choice, is there really that much of a noticeable difference between the Experts / Comps and gravel/road? I don’t anticipate using the dropper, but do like chunky tires, so am quite torn. Thanks!
ReplyCourt
5 years agoHi David! I come from a mountain biking background (with a bit of road). These days, as I’ve gotten older, I prefer the comfort of wider tires and love to adventure with my bikes… so having some tread and off-road capability is great. There’s something really special about how efficient the narrow hard tires of the standard road models feels… like a race car. However, with the electric assist, you might be riding further and faster on average, so comfort could be worth the trade-off. I think I’d either get two ebikes and fully optimize for road efficiency, or if this is your single electric bike, then maybe it’s best to get a slightly more comfortable “all around” EVO model, and put the extra money into the Expert level. The electronic shifting is done really well and is the biggest upgrade. For me, color and style also play a role, so if there’s one that calls out (Comp or Expert) then take that into consideration. All of the Creo models that I tested were awesome and I’d be happy with any of them :)
ReplyRuben Ordinario
4 years agoHi, I wish Specialized would be able to put a control switch on the handle bar to change between the modes from ECO to TURBO rather than reaching out on the top tube. It think its more easier control for the rider.
ReplyCourt
4 years agoI agree… and they have chosen to do so on the flat-bar Turbo Vado SL which also comes with fenders and a rear rack, slightly wider tires, and integrated lights. If you are okay skipping to lighter and more sporty Creo, with it’s cool drop bars, then consider the Vado SL for sure ;)
ReplyRuben
4 years agoI already had the CREO SL Expert, and finding it absurd to hang onto the handle bar every time you switch to another mode. My 2019 Turbo LEVO has control in the handle bar, why Specialized did not use same in CREO.
Martin K
4 years agoHi. I’m the happy owner of a “Turbo Creo SL Comp Carbon EVO” and am considering to upgrade it with Di2 GRX gear shifting (basically same as what the “Turbo Creo SL Expert EVO” is born with). Do you know where Specialized placed the Di2 battery on the “Turbo Creo SL Expert EVO”?
With the EVOs drop post system it can’t be in the seat post, but maybe in the bottom of the seat tube just above the crank/e-motor?
Thanks for any hint you may be able to give me.
Cheers,
ReplyMartin
Court
4 years agoHi Martin! Sorry for the slow reply. I’m not 100% sure on this, but I believe they put the battery in the handlebar and there’s a button at the end of the drop section… I’m only working from memory here, but look at the end of the right handlebar for a plastic cap with some buttons. Please let me know if this is correct!!
ReplyMartin
4 years agoHi Court. Thanks kindly for your follow-up. Having looked at Di2 parts, videos etc. I’m fairly sure that that the battery won’t fit in the handlebar, but you are right that there is a Di2 charging port/control unit to be fitted in one side of the handlebar-end.
The more I look at details etc. I think the battery must be fitted above the crank in the seat-tube, where the seat-tube is wide enough to allow the dropper-post wire to pass by the battery. But of course that may interfere with the main battery charging port.
Will let you know if I figure out the details.
Martin K
4 years agoHi Court. Since you asked, I never found out how Specialized have installed Di2 on their version with dropper-post. However I’ve successfully installed Di2 with the battery (wrapped in enough bubble-plastic to keep it in place) plus a Bluetooth antenna (no signal loss through carbon frame) and Di2 4-way junction box in the horizontal top tube. Installation done through the opening for the ebike control unit in the top tube. I used a 160 cm Di2 cable to connect the rear-mech to the 4-way junction box.
Di2 charging port/control unit is installed in one side/end of the handlebar. This YouTube video on Di2 (stealth) installation (and the follow up) were very useful, but according to my tests, the BT antenna will not work from inside alloy handlebars as is otherwise shown in the video.
Jim
4 years agoI’m a 71 yr old cyclist who have raced (cat 3) and ridden for 40 years. My racing career ended 3 years ago because I just couldn’t stay up with the younger riders. Group riding has always been my passion – whether racing or training- so when I became aware of the Specialized e-race bike – I was very interested. I purchased my bike ln October of 2019 – and – have never been happier. It’s like I’m 40 yrs old! Riding with the “hardcores” at 20 mph is easy and enjoyable. Just staying in the group is so much fun. I strongly encourage older racers to consider buying this E- bike. Jim B
ReplyCourt
4 years agoWonderful! I loved reading your comment (as an almost 40 year old myself). Ebike technology is so fun, and such a great way to connect with others from all levels. Ride on, Jim!! Thanks again for brightening my day with your post :D
ReplyR R K
4 years agoCourt, thanks a lot for your reviews, I’ve found them so informative since I got into e-biking 5 years ago. I’m the proud owner of a Turbo Creo SL Expert (mouthful). It’s absolutely the best bike I’ve ever ridden and your review nailed every feature and answered all my questions before I bought it. I only wish my LBS was a lot more informed on these bikes. This is a pretty high end bike, and especially when you’re talking about things like Di2 and range extenders, it doesn’t seem like my LBS had any idea (your review answered my Qs).
One thing I should mention is that I wanted the EVO, but ended up with the non-EVO (stock is really low this time), but since the geometry is identical, I put the 700x38s on the non EVO and love it. I don’t really miss the dropper post at all.
Thanks for all the work you do!
ReplyCourt
4 years agoHey! This is the kind of comment I love to read, thanks R R K. I do my best to list the details, share my insights, and then keep the space open for feedback and improvements. I think you got one of the best (if not the best) electric road bikes on the market today. Love the SL system… Thanks again :D
ReplyMarcus
4 years agoRRK, I have the Turbo Creo Comp Carbon version with the 28mm road tires. I originally test rode the Comp Carbon EVO version and loved how smooth the ride was on the 700 x 38 were!!! I will be putting 700 x 38 Pathfinders on my Turbo Creo Comp Carbon as soon as the tires come in my LBS!! They are as of this writing on back order and will come in in early May. I also will be adding the Creo Road Remote to my bike so I can switch the levels of assist from the handlebar instead of taking my hand off the bar at all. It is my sincere hope that I will get all of the enjoyment out of the capabilities this bike offers that were only a dream for years. Enjoy your Turbo Creo!!
ReplyNREsq
3 years agoCan you provide a link or other info on the Creo Road Remote referred to, plz? Not able to find that by internet search for some reason. Thanks!
Court
3 years agoHere’s a video for the Creo SL Turbo Remote: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4fcrIRMO_Cg and a website listing for it at Mike’s Bikes https://mikesbikes.com/products/turbo-road-remote that Marcus was trying to share with you. Hope it helps!!
Marcus
3 years agoHere’s a video for the Creo SL Turbo Remote and a I saw a website listing for it at Mike’s Bikes, but that may be expired now.
ReplyCourt
3 years agoThanks Marcus!
ReplyMarcus
3 years agoYou’re so welcome. Let me know how it works out.
Will Sbarra
3 years agoMy Creo makes a clicking noise while pedaling. This occurs with light or heavy pressure on the pedals or stress on the motor. The clicking comes and goes. A friend with a Giant ebike had a clicking noise and it turned out to be a loose motor mount. My local Specialized dealer checked that out and the clicking still happens. I know another Creo owner with the same issue. I hesitate to call it a ‘problem’ as it is more of a ‘nuisance’ than anything else. Thoughts?
ReplyCourt
3 years agoInteresting, thanks for the feedback Will. Does the creaking have to do with ambient temperature? Could be that there’s more clearance when the motor is cold vs. hot or something? I’m just guessing, I have heard creak on traditional bicycle bottom brackets when riding at times, especially after broken in and if the bike got really wet.
ReplyWill
3 years agoThis is my 2nd Creo. The 1st was the SL aluminum model and this is the ‘expert’ level. I don’t recall hearing clicking on the SL. A friend has an SL and also has the clicking issue. I bought this bike the day before he and I left for a cycling tour in Carbondale CO. Late September. The weather was cool/cold in the mornings but 75/80 in the afternoons. Since then I’ve ridden hills, flats… not much in the way of rollers in the Sacramento CA area. I haven’t been able to associate the clicking with the weather. I was wondering if it has something to do pedal rpms vs internal gear rpms? Or, something else internal in the motor. Like spinning faster than the motor is spinning? The local Specialized shop does not know either.
Court, I’ve seen your name quite often on this forum. It seems you know quite a bit more than I do about ebikes. I get that ‘Q factor’ is related to crank lengths But I have no idea how? Could you explain? Also, I saw that you reviewed Bulls bikes a while back. Another friend have his and hers Bulls bikes, a townie version with fenders, front/rear lights, etc. About 45 lbs. He told me that have have the same clicking noise that I have. He thought Bulls and Specialized were using the same motor by Bosch. Perhaps, you know? We rode together on Saturday and he could hear it. It also seems to me that the clicking is coming from the drive side of the motor/bottom bracket area.
Whatever enlightenment you can share would be great. The Creo line is great except for this one ‘annoyance’.
ReplyCourt
3 years agoHi Will! Yeah, I’ll share a little background and some insights that might help with your motor clicking questions. I started ElectricBikeReview.com in 2012 and have done 90% of the videos, photos, writeups, and I’m in the forums often too… since I created them. I travel a lot, am constantly filming, and just trying to keep this place in good shape and answering questions whenever I can.
Okay, Q-Factor is the measurement between the crank arms. It’s like how wide the arms are apart. Some motors (Bosch) tend to force a wider Q-Factor while others are more “normal” or narrow like regular bicycles have. Fat bikes tend to have wide Q-Factor whether they are electric or not, because the tires are wide and the driveline (the chain going from the chainring back to the cassette) has to be pushed out to make room for the wide tires. If you have a specific question around this, I’ll try to answer, but here’s a short guide I made about the topic a while back in the forums that might help. It includes a picture :)
Okay, so some Specialized turbo models use the Brose motor, which BULLS sometimes uses too. BULLS is unique because they use Bosch, Brose, and SR Suntour motors. Brose tends to be small, light, and quiet since they have a belt drive inside. The downside is that I’ve heard some questions come up about reliability. Bosch has several generations of mid-drives and have a good reputation for reliability and support… but their motors tend to be a little wider, heavier, and louder. The latest generation of Bosch resolves weight, size, and even noise to some extent. The Specialized SL models (Super Light) use a custom motor that Specialized designed with MAHLE… and I think that’s almost a secret, but I post it in my reviews here after digging into things a bit. Specialized always wants to appear like their hardware is totally unique and custom. Even when they use Brose motors, they call it their Specialized Turbo motor and reluctantly acknowledge that it’s a “highly customized” Brose. I chalk this up to marketing and premium pricing, but I do think that Specialized is one of the best and definitely the coolest and most cutting edge in the space. I LOVE their SL motor.
Still no idea where the clicking is coming from or what it might be caused by. Perhaps a bearing inside or some sand or just creaking based on the tightness of the interface or spindle inside? These things are VERY complex, with lots of moving parts. Here’s a video showing what’s inside the Brose motor (again, not the same as your SL motor, but possibly what your friend has on his BULLS, this or a Bosch motor). Sorry I cannot provide more feedback without being there in person or taking it apart. Perhaps you could record a video with closeups and multiple angles, put it on YouTube, and share the link here and in the Specialized forums :)
ReplyWill Sbarra
3 years agoThanks Court! Now I understand Q factor. I’ve seen a few posts where the motor has been replaced (under warranty) and that cured the clicking noise while pedaling. For those new to my situation, I have a 2 month old Creo Expert with 625 miles ridden. The bike makes a clicking noise with each revolution of the pedals. This occurs intermittently at various speeds, pressure on the pedals, temperatures, etc. The clicking does not affect the performance of the the bike but, it’s really annoying!
My assist level in Eco mode is 25/35, Sport 60/60, Turbo 100/100. I strive to use as little assist as possible and the majority of miles have been in Eco mode. A trip to Colorado with 6 riding days (233 miles) I used level 2 quite a bit. I live in the flatlands and it’s 30 miles before I can ride a hill other than a highway overpass. I will look into the warranty/labor claim others have mentioned.
Will Sbarra
3 years agoI took my Creo out for a spin last night with the motor ‘off’ … no electric assist. There was no clicking noise while pedaling which leads me to believe that the issue is with the motor itself. I will contact my local Specialized shop and also the shop where I purchased the bike, about an hour drive. Will see if I can get the motor repaired/replaced under warranty.
Should I contact Specialized as well? If so, does anyone know how to contact them? Any help is greatly appreciated!
ReplyCourt
3 years agoHi Will! I wish you luck, and think the approach of working through your shops is best. I no longer have a contact within Specialized, just a marketing person who shares updates and helps to arrange reviews when new products are being released. My own best source of help is often the local dealers here in Vancouver, BC. If you’re in the area, I can try to introduce you to them :)
ReplyWill
3 years agoThis is about the Specialized Creo ‘clicking’ issue… maybe some good news! I rode on Tuesday and it was mostly click-free. When the clicking started I stopped pedaling for just a split second, maybe two, then started again… no clicking for the rest of the ride, maybe 10 more miles. I told my friend Barry to try it on his Creo and he had the same experience… no clicking after a very brief interlude. No more clicking for the rest of his ride, maybe 10-15 miles!
ReplyCourt
3 years agoWow! Thanks for passing this tip along Will. Hopefully it’s repeatable and others can benefit from it as well. Glad to hear you’re out having some fun with the bike ;)
ReplyRob
2 years agoCourt, and EBR followers. Specialized Turbo Creo SL1.1 motor maximum support questions. Asked Specialized some days ago, but no response yet.
A heart condition limits my sustained power output to ~100 watts. My understanding is that the SL1.1 will match that at its 100% maximum contribution for a total of 200W as the most I can get, leaving the remaining 140W untapped. Is that correct, or can I somehow get more from the motor?
Do you know if the Heart Rate feature overrides the 100% limit? If a steady, paced climb requires say 300W, and I set my target HR at 100 bpm which allows me to sustain 100W, does the motor try to provide the desired 200W or limit its contribution to 100W?
Thanks, Rob DV
ReplyCourt
2 years agoHi Rob! Perhaps another visitor will chime in with more technical feedback. The SL motor provides lower power and torque output, but is fairly efficient and very light weight. If you use the higher levels of assist, the motor will provide more power, but I don’t know the exact wattage as it relates to your pedal power input. I do think the highest level of assist requires less input from you, and you could turn up the power and torque using their Mission Control app, but I cannot speak to the exact output and performance without doing some research on it or speaking with a shop tech. I had a contact at Specialized who was more technical, but they have changed positions and are not available now. I’m sorry I cannot say more, perhaps the best thing to do would be test ride the bike and compare to the non-SL models that tend to have higher motor power output if that’s what you need and are okay with the additional weight :)
Reply